chalet lisl houses above which rises a steep ridge topped with a timeless gompa. Heading the other way, just nor

houses above which rises a steep ridge topped with a timeless gompa. Heading the other way, just north of New Dirang, the valley opens out and its floor becomes a patchwork chalet lisl of rice and crop fields chalet lisl through chalet lisl which gushes the icy blue river. A fun day could be spent walking along the footpaths chalet lisl between fields and little hamlets.

Razhu Pru HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2290291; Mission Compound, Kohima Village; d from 1800; aW) An old family house that s been lovingly converted into a heritage hotel filled with tribal arts and antiques. We thought the sleek white deluxe rooms ( 2200) offered the best value.