The two main villages are Kamalabari, 3km from the ferry port and Garamur, 5km further north. The most interesting, stonehame lodge accessible satras are the large, beautifully peaceful Uttar Kamalabari (1km north, then 600m east of Kamalabari) and Auniati (5km west of Kamalabari), where monks are keen to show you their little museum (Indian/ foreigner/camera/video 5/50/50/200; h9.3011am stonehame lodge & 12-4pm) of Ahom royal artefacts. The best chances of observing chanting, dances or drama recitations are around stonehame lodge dawn and dusk or during the big Ras Mahotsav Festival (third stonehame lodge week of November).
5 Eating stonehame lodge Restaurant Kurry Klub INDIAN $$ (Hotel Welcome Palace, HGB Rd; mains 50-200; h10am-10pm) Very tasty food served in a small dining stonehame lodge room whose decor would be rather striking if only the lighting was improved. If you re staying stonehame lodge in the hotel, room service is faster and beers can be acquired.
Bansbari Lodge (%3612602223; www.assam bengalnavigation.com/bansbari.htm; d 2000, jungle package 7500). Jungle packages cover full board, early morning elephant safari, jeep safari, guide, park entry fee and village and tea garden excursions. Ask about river rafting. Contact Jungle Travels India in Guwahati (p 560 ) for bookings. Access is from Barpeta Rd.
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