slopeside grill steamboat This hard-to-beat option has helpful English- speaking staff, eager room service and superb food. Ro

This hard-to-beat option has helpful English- speaking staff, eager room service and superb food. Rooms are neat, although some may not have external windows. It s by far the most popular of the city centre hotels and is worth booking in advance.

Trafik BAR (GNB Rd; beers 70; h10am-10pm) This underlit bar has a vast screen for cricket matches or filmi (slang term describing anything to do with Indian movies; in this case, Bollywood music) clips.

Voyaging to the Ziro Valley is one of the undisputed slopeside grill steamboat highlights of a trip to Arunachal Pradesh and, though the scenery is stunning slopeside grill steamboat and the village architecture fascinating, the voyeuristic main attraction here is meeting slopeside grill steamboat the friendly older Apatani folk who sport facial tattoos and nose plugs that would be the envy of any tattooist in the West (see p 566 ). The most authentic Apatani villages are Hong (the biggest and best known), Hijo (more atmospheric), slopeside grill steamboat Hari, Bamin and Dutta; none of which are more than 10km apart. It s vital to have a local guide to take you to any of these villages otherwise you won t see much and might even be made to feel quite unwelcome. Christopher Michi (%9402048466/8014012558; slopeside grill steamboat christopherdulley@ yahoo.co.in/christophermichi@hotmail.com) is the chairman of the Apatani Cultural Preservation Society and can organise superb visits slopeside grill steamboat to the villages slopeside grill steamboat don t be at all surprised slopeside grill steamboat if your tour culminates in an evening of drinking rice wine and chowing down on barbequed rat in a villager s house!

Ygdrasill Bamboo slopeside grill steamboat Cottage GUESTHOUSE $$ (%9401625744; r 1200) Around a kilometre before Garamur (on the road to Kamalabari), slopeside grill steamboat this thatched hut perches on stilts above a marshy, avian-filled lake. The sound of fish plopping about in the water below your bed and a thousand screaming cicadas (as well as a million marauding mosquitoes bring repellent!) will lull you to sleep at night. The bamboo beds are comfortable and it s nicely furnished. They serve a stunning Majuli thali in the evening and a breakfast that might be a bit too local for many tastes!