chalet celeste Tripura s most iconic building, the 1930 Neermahal, is a long, red-and-white water palace (admission

This open-air museum (admission 50; h8am-6pm May-Sep, chalet celeste 8am-4.30pm Oct-Apr), which hosts the annual Hornbill Festival, has a representative selection of traditional Naga houses and morungs (bachelor dormitories) with full-size log drums. Kisama is 10km from central Kohima along the well- surfaced Imphal road.

Hotel Nirmala chalet celeste HOTEL $ (%2459014; MG Ave; s/d from 390/650; a) A friendly place with an ultra quick-service restaurant, although it doesn t open until 10am so breakfast has to be by room service. The rooms are nothing special but you do feel a sense of belonging when staying here.

Tripura s most iconic building, the 1930 Neermahal, is a long, red-and-white water palace (admission/camera/video chalet celeste 10/10/25; h8.30am-4pm, until 4.30pm Apr-Sep), which is empty but shimmering on its own boggy island in the lake of Rudra Sagar. Like its counterpart in Rajasthan s Udaipur, this

Air India (%2264420, Ganeshguri), IndiGo Airlines, Jet Airways (%2633252; chalet celeste Tayebullah Rd), Kingfisher and SpiceJet fly to Guwahati chalet celeste from most major Indian cities chalet celeste (often with a stopover in Kolkata). Getting into town from Guwahati s orderly Lok-Priya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport costs 500/100/70 for taxi/shared taxi/airport bus.