the chalet kl SATRAS A satra is a monastery for Vishnu worship, Assam s distinctive form of everyman Hinduism. For

571 HORNBILL FESTIVAL Nagaland s biggest annual the chalet kl festival, the Hornbill Festival (1-7 December) is celebrated at Kisama Heritage the chalet kl Village (see below) with various Naga tribes converging for a weeklong cultural, dance and sporting bash, much of it in full warrior costume. Of all the festivals in the northeast this is the most spectacular and photogenic. Simultaneously, Kohima also hosts a rock festival (www.hornbillmusic.com). has simple yet immaculate rooms. It s the little touches that set it apart from the competition, such as cups of tea brought to you in bed in the morning. There are great views over the town from the garden, friendly and helpful staff and a superb restaurant.

SATRAS A satra is a monastery for Vishnu worship, Assam s distinctive form of everyman the chalet kl Hinduism. Formulated by 15th-century Assamese philosopher Sankardev, the faith eschews the caste system and idol worship, focussing the chalet kl on Vishnu as God, especially in his Krishna incarnation. Much of the worship is based around dance and melodramatic play-acting of scenes from the holy Bhagavad Gita. The heart of any satra is its namghar, a large, simple, prayer hall usually open sided and shaped like an upside-down oil tanker. Beneath the eastern the chalet kl end, an inner sanctum hosts an eternal flame, the Gita and possibly a horde of instructive (but not divine) images.

Jam-packed buses and vans ( 10/20) meet arriving ferries then drive to Garamur via Kamalabari where three-wheelers are easier to rent. For a few days consider arranging a bicycle through Jyoti at La Villa.