FACIAL TATTOOING kasinka Historically famous for their beauty, Apatani women were all too often kidnapped by warriors of the neighbouring Nishi tribes. As a defence , Apatani girls were deliberately defaced. They were given facial tattoos, like graffitied kasinka beards scribbled onto living Mona Lisa paintings, and extraordinary kasinka nose plugs known as dat fitted into holes cut in their upper nostrils. Some men also have tattoos. Peace with the Nishis kasinka in the 1960s meant an end to that brutal practice, kasinka but many older women still wear dat. Photography is an understandably sensitive issue, so ask first. kasinka Some Apatani women have had cosmetic surgery to remove their tattoos.
Some 3km west on Mahatma Gandhi Marg is Ganga Market, landmarked by a red, triple-spired temple and nearby clock tower. The market itself is a busy clash of peoples from across the borderlands as well as piles of colourful fruit and some other decidedly exotic kasinka food items. The good-value Hotel Blue Pine (%2211118; s 300-500, kasinka d 500-600) is here, with well-maintained rooms and a mix of common and private bathrooms. Don t mind the caged receptionist, he s quite tame and helpful.
Broadway INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (GS Rd; mains 60-150) With a a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere and an impressive array of aquariums kasinka full of goldfish, this no- nonsense restaurant serves a tasty mix of Indian and Chinese meals.
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